hiya wa howa aswat

Shawn Alladio is the foremost expert in jet ski safety and rescue. Despite not living under the media radar, she has saved lives of the best big wave surfers in the world.

She is one of the most influential people in big wave surfing. Her name is Shawn Alladio. She has been teaching how to save fearless wave riders' lives, since 1989.

Alladio is a woman in a male-dominated environment. Big surf. In 1979, she bought her first Kawasaki jet ski and within years she had established the K38 Way of Training, a lifesaving method involving personal water crafts (PWC).

K38 designs courses in swiftwater rescue, flood, open water, and surf for recreational and occupational lifesavers, while setting the standards with innovative and effective techniques.

In 1998, K38 and Shawn Alladio rescued Brazilian big wave surfer Carlos Burle, two times during the Todos Big Wave Team Challenge. One year later, the experienced waterwoman behind K38 was appointed Water Safety Director, for the International Surfing Association (ISA).

The foremost authority for Rescue Water Craft (RWC) training survived, alongside Jonathan Cahill, a set of eleven 90-foot plus waves at Mavericks, on the 21st November, 2001.

The truth is Alladio has been saving lives in the most deadly big wave surf spots. Dungeons, Shark Park, Todos Santos, Mavericks, Teahupoo, Nelscott Reef, you name it.

"When I set up to recover an athlete with their surfboard, I have to select the best timeline in relationship to the athlete position and when they come up to the surface", Alladio writes.

"This varies depending upon the type of fail and underwater submersion they are experiencing. If the next wave is too close to the center mark in the trough, I have to pull out for safety or the wave will catch me".
"Sometimes they surface early and the recovery is positive, other times the environmental factors prevent their recovery. This also depends upon how deep near the pit they are located and the amount of aerated water", she adds.

Despite not living under the spotlight, tow-in and big wave surfing owe her a lot. Shawn Alladio has received numerous boating safety awards, in more than two decades of experience.

Alladio has supported the idea of having non-government sanctioned jet ski teams, at Mavericks, outside the period of high surf warning issued by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Lives could be saved. At Half Moon Bay, and in many other dangerous surf spots.


The K38 Water Safety brand is now operating in USA, Japan, Australia, Cyprus, Italia, Micronesia, Poland, Portugal, South Africa, Spain, UK and Ireland with the same safety procedures. The company's motto says it all. "The Life You Save May Be Your Own".

Mavericks Surf Contest - K38 Big Wave Surfing Rescues

A complete surfer uses all trumps to perform better, from good to great. Backside surfing is always relevant, even if you don't enjoy it.

It has been hailed as the Achilles' heel of many surfers. How good is your backhand in all wave conditions? Do you dedicate enough time to riding waves with your back to the wall?

For many surfers, backside surfing is easier than its classic brother. Although the pressure's on your back, as the curl drops energy over your butt and you're spit towards the shore, some riders say it's simple to pull cornered snaps and high line cutbacks.

The moment you understand your backside surf, you'll unveil new frontiers for your dreams. Here are some of the immediate advantages:
1. Double the chances of riding waves
2. Get the most of A-peak frames
3. Ride waves others leave unridden
4. Pull tricks and moves that you can't perform in forehand mode
5. Get access to new wave peaks and surf spots
6. Improve the quality of your overall surf

If you have problems with your backhand surfing, know that there are simple exercises you can do to get it right.

For example, while paddling for a wave - no matter you're a natural footer or a goofy-footer - try to position your surfboard almost parallel to the wave.

It's usually easier to avoid a sharp bottom-turn and go straight to the surf line. Try to apply more weight in your ankle, as you drive down the wave wall to the end of the ride.

Also, roll your back foot to around 45 degrees of the stringer line. It will open your upper body to the trim line, so that you can read the wave properly.

Open up your shoulders, align them with the rails, and position your leading arm on the same side as the wave face, rather than the opposite side with your trailing arm.

Feet positioning is critical in backhand surfing. Your back foot should really be as far back as you can, if you want to hit the lip after a bottom-turn. For speed, lift your arms in the direction of surf line.

By repeating this process several times, you'll teach your brain how to manage balance, weight and joint movement while having a wave breaking against your back.


Finally, keep a relatively low stance as you take-off and pop-up on your board, and lead the turns with your front arm. The tenth wave will seem easier. You'll notice several improvements in balance, feet/hip response and drive. Go for it and never avoid backside surfing.

Piccolo Clemente (PER) is the newly crowned 2013 ASP World Longboard Champion after winning the CITIC Pacific Riyue Bay ASP World Longboard Championships hosted by Wanning today in China.


Clemente trailed Rodrigo Sphaier (BRA) throughout the final but in the dying minutes while holding priority, he was presented with an excellent set wave which he went on to score the final’s top scoring ride of a 7.5 out of 10 to steal the win, on a scoreline of 13.60 to 12.25.

“It felt for me like I was meant to win today” said an emotional Clemente after the final.
“All my three heats today, Quarters, Semi and Final, I trailed and it was my last wave that got me through. In the final I sat there nervous in the last minutes but confident a wave would come to me and again it happened – It felt like God was on my side today.”

“I am very proud to win the ASP World Longboard Championship and to represent Peru as an ASP World Longboard Champion.”

Rodrigo Sphaier had been the stand-out surfer throughout this event consistently posting outstanding rides throughout all rounds but the stocky Brazilian was not at his best during the final.

“I am very happy for Piccolo but I’m very disappointed to lose the final” said Sphaier.
“All event I felt really good on the great waves here in China but in the final it did not happen for me.”
In his earlier Quarter and Semi Final heats Sphaier comprehensively knocked out former ASP World Longboard Champions Duane Desoto (HAW) and Harley Ingleby (AUS). Desoto finishing in equal 5th place and Ingleby equal 3rd.
Antoine Delpero from France was eliminated in his see-sawing Semi Final by Clemente.
“It’s been a fantastic event and the waves have been amazing the last few days” said Delpero.
“Third is OK but I would have liked to make the Final because the Semi was so close.”
Former 2009 ASP World Longboard Champion Harley Ingleby was philosophical about his 3rd placing this year.

“The overall performance level here was incredible so I can’t be too unhappy with 3rd place. It’s better than 5th last year and I’m looking forward to coming back here next year” said Ingleby.
Chinese Government Officials expressed their appreciation to the ASP, surfers and media and were looking forward to a bigger and better event for 2014.

Photos, daily web highlights will be available via the event website at www.china.prosurfinglive.com
Final:
1st - Piccolo Clemente (PERU)
2nd - Rodrigo Sphaier (BRA)
Semi Final Draw:
Semi 1: 1st Rodrigo Sphaier (BRA), 2nd Harley Ingleby (AUS)
Semi 2: 1st Piccolo Clemente (PERU), 2nd Antoine Delpero (FRA)

Quarter Final Draw:
Quarter Final 1: 1st Harley Ingleby (AUS), 2nd Nelson III Ahina (HAW)
Quarter Final 2: 1st Rodrigo Sphaier (BRA), 2nd Duane Desoto (HAW)
Quarter Final 3: 1st Piccolo Clemente (PERU), 2nd Timothee Creignou (FRA)
Quarter Final 4: 1st Antoine Delpero (FRA), 2nd Kai Sallas (HAW)

When GPS devices were introduced in professional surfing, it felt like a new door had opened. Two years later, nobody knows who's the fastest surfer on Tour.

In 2011, the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast decided to debut an innovative speed management system. The idea was to track the surfers' performance and unofficially "crown" a speed champion.

The use of the GPS devices was not compulsory during heats. Only those willing to compete with the electronic device would get data for further analysis.

The technology allowed taking interesting conclusions, not only on speed issues, but also on "flow", distance and wave face decisions.

The initial tests revealed Mick Fanning as the lightning bolt of the ASP World Tour. He recorded a maximum speed of 39.1 km/h. In second place, Joel Parkinson stood with 34,6 km/h, Bede Durbidge was third (33,6 km/h) and Kelly Slater places took fourth (32 km/h).

The GPS experience in contemporary surfing promised new investments in the surfboard shaping world. Would shapers get involved and embed micro GPS devices in their works?

Apparently nothing happened and the ASP World Tour quietly discontinued the GPS test. Despite getting really interesting results, the surf industry ignored speed in surfing.

On the opposite side, windsurfers and kiteboarders are diving into speed and GPS tracking devices. Speed is actually the new hype and it is here to stay, with multiple challenges and competitive formats.

Will speed surfing get a new chance? Will there ever be a speed-to-air surfing contest? Why not?

Perfect surf invaded the 2013 Vans World Cup of Surfing, at Sunset Beach, Hawaii, as Round of 96 is completed.

Triple overhead waves allowed Beyrick De Vries, 20, having a day to remember, after scoring a the event's only perfect 10 to date for a huge, deep tube ride hailed as the best barrel ever surfed on Sunset's west peak during competition.

"It's pretty much a 55 hour travel here on a plane and costs you pretty much half your budget. Living here is expensive and you kind of doubt it all, but then you get one wave like that and everything's worth it. It's all worth it, I'm stoked", says De Vries.

"I just saw blue out there and it was a heavy take off. I just tried to dodge the foam ball, stood up and looked down the line and I just saw this thing that was perfect. I just stood there and kind of looked at the scenery. It's one of the best places to be on earth, in the barrel. I'm just living in the moment and it paid off and I'm so happy.

The surf was absolutely perfect for most of the day, peaking with wave face heights of up to 25 feet and light offshore winds.

For every memorable ride there was an unforgettable wipeout, the worst of which was sustained by local teenager Kalani David, 16. David's heat was held early in the day during the peak of the swell. Conditions were giant and intimidating to say the least, but he threw it all on the line in a bid to prove his place in the lineup.

David's worst wipeout came after a late takeoff that saw him lose his footing before getting absolutely pummeled by a cascade of water.

Local ocean scientist Pat Caldwell, of Honolulu's NOAA office, took a look at imagery of David's wipeout and estimated the volume of the wave above him to be at 180 cubic feet.

At 64 pounds of pressure per cubic foot, that equates to more than 11,000 pounds of water unloading on the youngster. While it spelled the end of the road for Kalani in this event, he gained major credibility and can rest easy knowing he never cowered.

"No words can describe how worked you get. There's no words to describe it. You get tumbled and held under and your back starts to hurt. I'm still breathing hard. I'm dizzy", says David.

"I just took off underneath the lip and my front foot slipped and I never had that happen before. Right when I fell it was like 'no, this isn't about to happen'. I was actually more embarrassed than I was scared because I face planted and my jersey ripped off. So embarrassing".

2013 Vans World Cup of Surfing | Round of 96

H1: Ian Walsh (HAW) 14.17pts ; Hodei Collazo (EUK) 11.27pts ; Charles Martin (GLP) 9.83pts ; Conner Coffin (USA) 9.70pts
H2: Makuakai Rothman (HAW) 13.53pts ; Jay Thompson (AUS) 13.16pts ; Jesse Mendes (BRA) 11.06pts ; Makai McNamara (HAW) 9.53pts
H3: Ryan Callinan ((AUS) 14.33pts ; Hank Gaskell (HAW) 10.76pts ; Pancho Sullivan (HAW) 10.60pts ; Dion Atkinson (AUS) 9.43pts
H4: Carlos Munoz (CRI) 15.50pts ; Ian Gentil (HAW) 14.23pts ; Kalani David (HAW) 10.97pts ; Stu Kennedy 9.23pts
H5: Caio Ibelli (BRA) 14.90pts ; Frederico Morais (PRT) 14.oopts ; Yadin Nicol (AUS) 8.90pts ; Ramzi Boukhiam (MAR) 3.17pts
H6: Mitchel Coleborn (AUS) 13.07pts ; Joshua Moniz (HAW) 10.70pts ; Marco Frenandez (BRA) 10.57pts ; Seth Moniz (HAW) 6.56pts
H7: Brian Toth (PRI) 12.87pts ; Kaimana Jaquias (HAW) 12.40pts ; Patrick Gudauskas (USA) 12.27pts ; Cooper Chapman (AUS) 6.36pts
H8: Gavin Gillette (HAW) 15.16pts ; Wiggolly Dantas (BRA) 15.07pts ; Chris Ward (USA) 10.06pts ; Matt Banting (AUS) 8.86pts
H9: Heitor Alves (BRA) 12.77pts ; Krystian Kymerson (BRA) 11.00pts ; Dale Staples (ZAF) 10.63pts ; Maxime Huscenot (FRA) 9.00pts
H10: Torrey Meister (HAW) 15.33pts ; Joan Duru (FRA) 15.24pts ; Alex Smith (HAW) 12.60pts ; Marc Lacomare (FRA) 12.37pts
H11: Ezekiel Lau (HAW) 14.00pts ; Willian Cardoso (BRA) 12.27pts ; Keanu Asing (HAW) 9.50pts ; Thiago Camarao (BRA) 6.53pts
H12: Kiron Jabour (HAW) 18.33pts ; Wade Carmichael (AUS) 14.97pts ; Davey Cathels (AUS) 13.33pts ; Marcus Hickman (HAW) 8.16pts
H13: Beyrick De Vries (ZAF) 17.50pts ; Peterson Crisanto (BRA) 17.03pts ; Tom  Whitaker (AUS) 13.42pts ; Koa Smith (HAW) 12.53pts
H14: Tim Reyes (USA) 15.50pts ; Olamana Eleogram (HAW) 13.87pts ; Aritz Aranburu (EUK) 11.33pts ; Nathan Florence (HAW) 11.03pts
H15: Tanner Gudauskas (USA) 15.67pts ; Joel Centeio (HAW) 14.33pts ;  Ian Gouveia (BRA) 7.23pts ; Nathan Hedge (AUS) 6.50pts
H16: Nathan Yeomans (USA) 11.90pts Ricardo Christie (NZL) 10.93pts ; David Do Carmo (BRA)  7.24pts ; Tomas Hermes (BRA) 2.63pts

Zac Young, a 19-year-old bodyboarder, has lost his life in a shark attack, at Coffs Harbour, New South Wales, Australia.

Young was enjoying waves with his friends at Campbell's Beach, when a bull shark bit his legs. They were catching waves at a spot named "The Well", 200 meters off Riecks Point.
The bodyboarder fought the shark and had to be taken to the beach by his friends. Although he was treated by the medical team, Zac Young wouldn't survive the loss of blood.
"I can only recall, in the 35 years I've been here, of two shark attacks, both of those were only little. It's very, very unusual", says Greg Hackfath, Coffs Harbour Council lifeguard team leader.
The local bodyboarding community is shocked. In the last week, Chris Boyd, 35, was killed by a shark when he was surfing "Umbies", near Gracetown, Western Australia.
The IBA Australasia has also issued an official statement. "Our members and staff wish to extend our deepest condolences to the family of Port Macquarie bodyboarder Zac Young. Zac was a great kid and will be dearly missed by us all".

Zac Young was enjoying his first road trip after getting his driver's licence. He wanted to follow a career as a news photographer. He will be always remembered by his friends and family as a warm and friendly human being.

Take a look at the shark attack map.

John John Florence, fully cured. Photo: Jimmicane

Guy walks into a doctor’s office with a carrot up his nose and says, “Doc, what’s the matter with me?” 
The doctor takes a look and says, “You’re not eating properly.” Sometimes, shapers can be doctors. Because sometimes, we got a carrot up our nose, claiming the board’s a lemon, when we just needs bigger fins. Or a little more practice on our backhand. Or a board that’s a quarter-inch thicker. We asked a few major shapers their take on a few common ailments and here’s what they prescribed.

—Beau Flemister

Symptom // Treatment

Bogs on turns:
The first thing to do is look at the volume and make sure the surfer is on a board with the appropriate length and width. Then analyze your stance and foot placement. Also… work on your surfing.

Loses speed in flat spots on waves:
Again, volume is the biggest part of the equation here. More specifically, take a look at the rocker. A board with less rocker may help. And if that fails, then take a surf trip to waves without flat spots.

Too loose:
Check the fin placement and fin size. Generally, it’s too loose if the fins are too far up. Getting technical from there, you can look at the splay of the fins. If the fins get thinner towards the tip, the less drag/resistance, which will produce a looser feel. Also, look at what kind of waves are being ridden. If you’re at Pipe and the board feels loose, it could too much tail-width (go narrower). But if you’re at Lowers, focus more on the fins.

Too stiff:
Get a board with more rocker and/or get some smaller fins.

Goes better frontside than backside (and vice versa):
This is tricky, as 9 out of 10 times it’s a technique-based problem and not the board’s fault. A certain board will suit certain types of waves and certain types of curves better than others, and you can draw different lines on your backhand vs forehand. But technique should overcome any board difficulty.

A reminder of the colossal swell that collided with Bali on October 10th. This Uluwatu bomb was caught amongst the mayhem.

© ando.m

Yes. It's Barcelona.
A Pukas crew featuring Aritz Aranburu, Ibon Amatriain, Mario Azurza and Adur Letamendia surfed the Mediterranean Sea on March 6th, 2013. A solid swell and a bunch of Pukas "Foamball" model surfboards shaped by Mikel Agote for the dredging barrels. Surfing Barcelona.

A single session stuffed with tasty morsels to rejuvenate your stoke levels.Those who have ventured to this Portuguese reef will know it’s not as friendly as the jovial soundtrack might suggest. Having said this, Jeremy Flores, Tiago Pires and Patrick Beven don’t let the shallow ledge spoil their fun.

Surfers have lost lives in the big surf. A new generation of giant wave riders is improving their safety levels, and helping others survive in extreme ocean conditions.

How many hazards can you find in the surf? The Big Wave Safety Summit, held on the North Shore of Oahu, alerted us to a wide number of dangerous examples. Some of them we hardly take into consideration when battling the swells.

Tides, currents, shore break, rocks, cliffs, reef/coral, fog, smog, kelp, lightning, sharks, power boats, piers, fish nets, floating object, backwash, mud, and chemicals are only a small number of adversities out there in the line-up.

Then, in big wave surfing scenarios, add the power and strength of the massive walls of salted water. The overall result is a serious, life-threatening stage.

Brian Keaulana, the iconic lifeguard, surfer, and surf rescue expert has shared important knowledge regarding big wave safety with a packed class of high-profile surfer students.

"The more knowledge you get, the more calculated you can be. That's what risk management is all about. Not listening to your emotions, but training and hitting the numbers on how you train", Keaulana says.
Today, big wave surfing has better gear, but you must know how to use that new technology otherwise you'll be "enhancing stupidity. In big wave surfing, the risks are so high you have to be dependant".

Kohl Christensen showed students how lives could be saved with basic and intermediate techniques, such as CPR, and quick jet ski rescue.


Spreading knowledge is saving lives, too. Know before you go, and teach others how to dramatically reduce risks in big wave surfing

With winter on the horizon, it’s time you start to prepare accordingly. Whether it’s California, Hawaii, or a far-flung reef pass, there will inevitably come a day when your standard shortboard has maxed out and you’ll need a step-up. To ensure that you have the right foam under your feet, we rang up the North Shore’s Pat Rawson for some insight into ordering the perfect step-up board.

First, let’s set the record straight on what exactly constitutes a step-up. As the name suggests, a step-up is a shape that’s slightly bigger than your standard shortboard but is built for waves a touch larger than you’re used to riding. It’s not a mini-gun. If you normally ride a 6‘ 0“ in surf up to 6 feet, your step-up should be around 6‘ 4“. The general design should actually mimic your standard board, but should be a tad bigger to accommodate for the larger swell. According to Pat Rawson, one of the North Shore’s most iconic shapers, “most good surfers will push their small-wave boards to just over head-high to double head-high waves, depending on their ability level and what wave they’re surfing, before they grab a step up.” To break things down further, Rawson compares the dimensions and specs of his standard shortboard to that of his standard step-up. Before you order your next step-up, consult the table below:




According to Rawson, when you’re ordering a step-up, it’s important to tell your shaper exactly what kind of conditions and what locations you’re looking to surf. “Six-foot Mentawais is a much different animal than 6-foot waves on the North Shore. Especially when you factor in wind, surface conditions, crowds, wave velocity, things like that,” says Rawson. “Teahupoo is another wave that requires a whole different set of rules.” In short, the more details you can give your shaper about the waves you plan on surfing, the better.

The more your shaper knows how you surf, the better your board will be. Rawson cites front-footed surfers and back-footed surfers as a prime example of how your approach in the lineup can affect how your board is shaped. Paddle power and confidence in overhead swells can also play a huge factor. Think of your shaper like a shrink. No one’s judging you here, but you’ll come out all the better if you’re up-front and honest. “I like to ask people ordering a board what their mindset is like regarding larger surf. I want to know if I can fit one of my intended designs into their surfing personality. If a surfer wants to ride a 6’4” in 10-foot Pipe, I’ll have to rethink my approach for that ability range, or more likely than not, that particular surfer may have a little too much optimism for that that 6’4”.

Although there are exceptions to every rule, as the size of the swell increases, most shapers and surfers generally opt to transition to a rounder tail or pin tail. In bigger surf, gaining speed won’t necessarily be an issue, but being able to control it will. With a rounder tail, you’ll have less surface area in the water, which will slow you down a touch and grant you more control over your board.


As a rule of thumb, the actual positioning of your fins shouldn’t change too much on your step-up, just the type of fin you’re using. For the most part, you’ll want to opt for a fin with a little less flex than the fins you’d use on your standard shortboard. Tech-flex and carbon fiber fins like the TP1 are a solid choice. While someone like John John has been known to ride small fins in just about any type of condition, for the rest of us, it’s not a bad idea to step up a fin size as well.

No matter where your Thanksgiving travels take you, as long as you stick near a coast, you’re stoked. Late November is a surefire bet for good surf pretty much anywhere in the States. Crisp fall conditions, regular pulses of swell in the Pacific and Atlantic, water and air not yet bone-chilling cold. Yet even among our bounty of surf options, jewels gleam. If you’ve got the freedom to break away from family commitments, these five areas are Thanksgiving’s best surf bets:

CENTRAL COAST

The stretch from Point Conception north to Big Sur is a big giant crapshoot of closed out sandbars and a few lumpy reefbreaks. It’s often a frustrating place to be a surfer, but in the fall the place can absolutely sing, with strong offshores transforming the closeouts into something a little more magical. When it comes to Thanksgiving, the Central Coast has got you covered. Some of the country’s best wineries are smack dab in the middle of San Luis Obispo’s Edna Valley, and wine pros don’t call Paso Robles the new Napa for nothing. Plenty of restaurants offer big, wine country Thanksgiving spreads. Plus, turkey hunting season starts mid-November, and there are tons of wild turkeys rooting around all over the Central Coast. If you’re into that kind of thing.

If you like some barrels with your turkey, the Outer Banks is your Thanksgiving destination. November is the backend of hurricane season, with semi-regular storms sending wave trains chugging into OBX from the north, east, and south. Westerly winds and combo swells mean spitting a-frames all day, up and down the Banks, if you know where to look. It’s a great family Thanksgiving destination with big rental houses right at the beach, most of them discounted heavily in the wake of the summer tourist season. Like some protein variety with your turkey? Fall fishing at OBX can be world-class.

When six surf filmmakers get their cameras, in six different countries, you'll find one journey with different paths. Those are the "Se7en Signs", an experiment in collaborative filmmaking, signed by Innersection.

Nathan Myers, Ben Gulliver, Saul Garcia, Joao Rito, Adam Chilton, and Nat Lanyon are our eyes in the field. The surf movie visits outstanding spots, exotic cultures and uncrowded line-ups.
The film features Peter Devries, Asher Pacey, Ozzy Wright, Torrey Meister, Joel Fitzgerald, Harrison Roach, Otis Carey, Daniel Jones, Chris Del Moro, Eli Steele, Noah Cohen, Gavin Gillette, and Kiron Jabour surfing mysterious waves.

Indonesia, Tasmania, Taiwan, West Coast USA, and more are explored in experimental mode. Don't know what it is? Ask Nathan Myers, the brain behind the project.
"Se7en Signs" will hit the world's best movie theaters, and will be available on iTunes. The DVD edition will also include "Innersection Black".


Discover the most comprehensive directory of surf movies.

Big wave surfer Greg Long has been included in on National Geographic's annual list of Adventurers of the Year.

Long is featured alongside prominent mountain climbers, swimmers, skiers and kayakers, and adventure fans are being asked by National Geographic to vote in their favorite for the People's Choice Award.

The surfer from San Clemente, California, is a six-time winner at the Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards.

He was surfing a massive swell at the Cortes Bank (100 miles off the California coast) with an elite crew on December 21, 2012, when he suffered a multi-wave hold-down and blacked out underwater.
Greg Long, 30, was rescued and revived by fellow surfers, stabilized and airlifted from the deck of their support ship by a US Coast Guard helicopter and transported to a hospital in San Diego where he was treated and released the following day.

"When you start to think about your friends and family. I know that I'm always going to ride big waves in some form or another. How, when, why, what's my motivation is still settling into place", Long tells National Geographic.

Despite the physical and mental trauma, Long soon resumed his quest for big wave performance, placing in the finals of the Mavericks Invitational, just a month after the accident.

Long quickly thereafter emerged as the Big Wave World Tour points winner in March, and in May took the Best Overall Performance Award at the Billabong XXLs, for the third time in his amazing career.

Past Adventurer of the Year honorees include base jumper Felix Baumgartner, surf legend Kelly Slater and astronaut John Grunsfeld.

CORTES BANK APOCALYPSE SWELL

It may be considered the Eighth Natural Wonder of the World. Welcome to the surf cave, a secret spot literally surrounded by rocks.

When surfers believe to have unveiled all surf spots of the world's continents, there's always another one ready to be discovered. This time, we bring you an exclusive surfing experience.
A surfer nicknamed Ericsurf6 has ridden a wave that breaks in a cave, somewhere in Japan. The "cave surfing" experience, as he calls it, is short but intense.

Surrounded by steep cliffs, you can actually see two surfers taking off near the cave's entrance, and then riding the wave all the way through to the small rocky beach that lies ahead.

The access to the surf spot is pretty unusual, but the experience looks fun. The new Natural Wonder of the World has been named "Green Room". Find out why.

Cave Surfing - Natural Wonder of the World

A new bodyboard design promises a revolution in the art of catching waves.

Simon Moore, inventor and designer from Blackburn, United Kingdom, believes he has developed an innovative bodyboard that will help you catch waves easier.

"I had been working on an underwater parachute braking system designed to help slow down ships and yachts, in storms. This helped form the basis of my new invention", explains Moore on his Wave Catcher plea, at Kickstarter.

"Universities and marine institutes study wave motion and this information has helped with the design of our board. Their studies show us how waves rotate tumbling forward towards the shore.
With its premium Ripstop pockets located on the board's bottom, you'll be pushed in the same direction of the wave, with additional power.

Simon Moore says that the pockets don't stay open all the time, for example, when the board is already moving fast over the water.


The Wave Catcher is made with a premium polyethylene core, approximately at 2.2 lbs per cubic foot. Are you willing to test it out?

Wave Catcher UK

For 48 hours in Oahu, big-wave surfers will rack their boards and enter the classroom for a study in safety—a summit to assess the risks of big-wave surfing today. The class will cover rescue techniques, breath training, emergency reaction situations, CPR, and other scenarios they might be face. Kohl Christensen, Danilo Couto, and Liam and Jodi Wilmott are spearheading the campaign, encouraging big-wave surfers from around the world to take notes, so that when shit hits the fan, they’ll know how to react.

Christensen and company hail from a long line of hellmen who surfed big waves before the era of paddle vests, inflation bladders, and safety teams. But the advent and increased availability of this technology, coupled with the tragic loss of close friends, was enough incentive for them to change their approach to big-wave safety.

“I didn’t wear a paddle vest in big waves for 10 or 15 years,” said Christensen. “But there wasn’t that consciousness that we have now where everyone is wearing them. Garrett [McNamara] was the only guy wearing them. We all thought he looked kind of funny, but he’s still around for a reason. It probably wasn’t cool back then, but today, fuck it. You don’t see a single skater riding a half pipe without a helmet. It should be the same thing with big-wave surfing. It’s a dangerous sport.”

Big-wave surfers clearly aren’t risk averse, admitted Christensen, but he’s adamant that’s no reason to make riding big waves even more dangerous by ignoring the available advancements in safety. The summit is in its third iteration now, adapting each year while sticking to themes of awareness and responsibility in the water. “We talk through scenarios and make sure everybody is on the same page when it comes to handling dangerous situations,” said Christensen. “Some guys know CPR, that’s pretty basic, but a lot of people don’t have much water safety knowledge beyond that. I’m no lifeguard—I’m just a surfer who’s seen a lot happen in big waves—but I’ve learned enough to possibly save someone in a bad situation.”
These last twelve months have been rough for big-wave surfing. The cost of the sport’s progression has never been so clear, with the near-drownings of Greg Long and Maya Gabiera, and the recent death of Kirk Passmore. In the rescues, Christensen said he saw the lessons from these classes applied. In the loss of Passmore, he saw some of the fundamental flaws of the sport revealed. He saw surfers pushing themselves beyond their means of safety.

“You want to be responsible,” said Christensen. “You want to have good equipment and wear your safety vest, not just for yourself, but for those out there that might be trying to help you. For your friends. There’s no reason not to. Big-wave surfing is an extreme sport. A lot of people have died. A lot of people have had friends die or come close to dying. How do we prevent it? We can’t totally, but we can do our part to manage the risks.”

For Christensen, the loss of close friend Sion Milosky in 2011 was the catalyst to start the class, and its evolution has continued with every swell event since. He’s adamant that there’s no reason the safety of big-wave surfing should progress any slower than the sport itself. “Hopefully it will bring awareness and make the whole big-wave season safer for everyone. We’re going to push it out there in the water. Guys are hungry, and that’s fine—that’s the way of our sport. But let’s just be safe and have fun doing it. Let’s enter the lineup knowing what to do if your buddy goes down, because whether it’s 2-foot or 20-foot, any wipeout could be their last