Gabriel Medina, Kolohe Andino, Nat Young and Michel Bourez are in the semifinals of the Fiji Pro 2014.

It was an intense day of action, at Cloudbreak, getting the most of the three-to-five foot (1 - 1.5 metre) surf on offer in Tavarua. Mick Fanning and Kelly Slater fell in the quarterfinals.

In one of the most exciting heats of the season, standout Michel Bourez met Kelly Slater. Bourez was the first to register a noteworthy score and back it up. Slater was left with low scores and swapped surfboards in the hopes of bridging the score gap, but he was unable to find the scores needed. Bourez becomes only the fifth person ever to beat Slater in a man-on-man heat at Cloudbreak.

"I thought Kelly would win and when I knew that I was going to surf against him, I was really excited. To have a chance to surf against the best guy out here is a chance for me," says Michel Bourez.

Nat Young busy chose some medium sized waves to take the lead while Fanning waited until the 18-minute mark before posting any scores. The Californian extended his lead and Fanning tried to fight back, but was unable to the find the waves he needed. Young moves ahead to the semifinals where he will face Bourez.
"The goal is to win the Final but you've to take it heat-by-heat. I'm stoked that I get to surf on the final day tomorrow in the Semifinals, and I hope the waves will be fun," says Young.

John John Florence and Gabriel Medina faced off in inconsistent conditions at Cloudbreak in the third Quarterfinal. The Hawaiian got on the board first, connecting a series of backhand turns. Medina waited nearly 10 minutes to find his first ride but the Brazilian soon found his rhythm, adding a 7.37 to leave Florence searching for a score that never came.

"I felt good and John John is always a tough guy to beat. We've already had some good battles with each other and he's one of my favorite surfers, so that felt good. It's always good to be up there at the top of the ratings and this was a good result but I'm focused on my surfing and having fun," explains Medina.

Fiji Pro 2014 Quarterfinal Results:
Quarterfinal 1: Nat Young (USA) 14.27 def. Mick Fanning (AUS) 7.50
Quarterfinal 2: Michel Bourez (PYF) 13.33 def. Kelly Slater (USA) 8.90
Quarterfinal 3: Gabriel Medina (BRA) 14.20 def. John John Florence (HAW) 6.34
Quarterfinal 4: Kolohe Andino (USA) 18.36 def. Adriano de Souza (BRA) 11.93

Fiji Pro 2014 Semifinal Match-ups:

Semifinal 1: Nat Young (USA) vs. Michel Bourez (PYF)
Semifinal 2: Gabriel Medina (BRA) vs. Kolohe Andino (USA)

The video, which shows several black swans repeatedly catching waves as curious beachgoers look on, was uploaded to YouTube by Channel Nine on Friday and has been picked up by major media outlets around the world including Live Leak and Grind TV.

The YouTube video has been viewed more than 20,000 times while Queensland's Nine News Executive Producer Cullen Robinson said it had been viewed another 75,000 times on their website, been shared 11,000 times from the Ninemsn website and was 'liked' 10,000 times.


"The footage is amazing and so unusual. We were excited to share it with Nine's audience and now the world," he said.

Local man Kelvin Mills shot the video and said he'd never seen swans at Kirra before, let alone ones that were surfing.


`We see Mick Fanning and others and Kelly Slater but not four black swans,'' he told Nine News.

Hawaii

Let’s not pretend that the insane non-stop wave generating elephant isn’t sitting in the corner. Hawaii is the Mecca of surfing, the hallowed center of the wave riding world. Besides being universally recognized as the motherland of our sport, Hawaii has served for decades as the ultimate proving ground for both professional surfers and big wave thrill seekers. With over 800 miles of coastline along its four largest islands (Hawaii, Kauai, Oahu, and Maui) and a temperate climate all year round, it's an obvious attraction for beach goers, but add massive swells from the North Pacific that arrive right on schedule each winter and clean South Pacific waves that glide in each summer, you've got the center of the surfing universe.

As far as waves are concerned, the only question you need answered when traveling to Hawaii is when, not if. More importantly, you might want to know, “Will it get too big?” You will get waves in Hawaii, but be careful what you ask for when the buoys hit 25 feet and you find yourself searching for a mellow nook on the opposite side of the island to stay safe from open ocean sneaker sets that will put a gray streak in your hair and a load in your pants. There is nowhere in the world like Hawaii for a surfer.

Indonesia

Since the 60’s, Indonesia has been a target for Australians surfers. But with some 1,700 islands and a wide open swell window facing out to the Indian Ocean, Indo’s vast reef network, warm tropical climate, and rich local culture have enticed several generations of surfers to explore ever deeper and ever farther out to the surfing frontiers of the region. Bali, Java, G-Land, and Sumatra and the Mentawais have all become synonymous with magazine spreads and epic boat trips that make for the wettest of all surf dreams.

It’s a pretty expensive and extensive trip for most surfers (Aussies have it a bit easier than most), but the surf makes the travel factor all worthwhile. The waves in indo can get big, but an average day can accommodate intermediate surfers as well. Crowds have become a factor in recent years, but surf forecasting and unimaginable Google mapping of the region have given surfers many options for exploring new wave fields.

Maldives

As a surf destination, the islands and atolls of the Maldives were discovered by a couple wayward Aussies on their way to Africa. The waves are perfect, the islands are remote, and the possibilities are endless. Billed as mellow perfection for intermediate surfers, the main waves can get populated by ever growing surf resort and charter companies, but the vast field of play includes some 1200 islands and 26 atolls that offer even the moderately inspired surfer to go one better and find a little slice of solitude.

Tahiti

The island of Tahiti is a paradise. And I don’t use that term loosely. A sub-tropical swell magnet packed full of reef passes and shallow slabs that offer serious barrels for serious surfers. While there are some novice nooks available, the bulk of Tahiti’s allure comes from heavy South Pacific drainers like Teahupoo. For traveling surfers, Tahiti is expensive, but the culture and surf more than make up for the prices. From October to March, you can expect small but consistent waves, but the South Pacific lights up from April to September.

Australia

Australia has become the world’s most powerful force in surfing. A land once ruled by its aboriginal population and seen as a haven for criminals and pirates, the continent is perfectly suited for wave riding as its location places it square in the path of the planet’s most powerful and consistent surf energy.
A rich and storied surf history and world class waves have cultivated a veritable surf star breeding ground. Lineups run deep with talent and the waves are relentless. A laundry list of classic waves like Snapper Rocks, Kirra, Margaret River, Bells Beach, Lennox head, and …the list is almost endless (if that’s possible).

Raimana Van Bastolaer at Teahupo‘o

May 2005

Photo by Brian Bielmann
Widely regarded as the heaviest wave in the world, Teahupo‘o, on the idyllic island of Tahiti, has seen its fair share of shocking wipeouts, but none generated the shock and awe quite like the time pro surfers Reef McIntosh and Raimana Van Bastolaer teamed up to tow into some big waves at the fabled surf spot. Reef McIntosh explains what went wrong…

“I went down there for a big swell and met up with Raimana at dawn. He was like, ‘Hey, Reef, drive the ski out there,’ and I was like, ‘Sure, no problem!’ Anyone can drive a Jet Ski in a lagoon. So I drive it out to the lineup and there’s Brock Little towing Shane Dorian into a wave. Seeing those guys, Raimana got all excited, but his usual driver, Arsene, wasn’t there; he was late or something. So Raimana says to me, ‘Hey, put the tow rope on the back of the ski.’ I knew how to put the rope onto it, so I was like, ‘Sure!’ Then he jumps into the water and says, ‘Let’s go!’

“I started looking around, thinking, ‘Is someone supposed to be jumping on this Jet Ski?’ Then I’m like, ‘Are you talking to me?’ He says, ‘Exactly, brother!’ I’m like, ‘You’re crazy! I don’t know how to drive it!’ Then he says, ‘No, brother, you can drive it! You got this!’ I kept saying ‘No, no, no. I can’t!’
“That went on for a while, then I’m like, ‘Okay fine, let’s go!’ So we head out there and I got him into a couple waves; I was getting more comfortable and thinking to myself, ‘Maybe I can do this…’ Then he sees that wave [pictured] and says, ‘Go! Go!’ So I went, he let go of the rope, and…

“So there was, like, a chop on top of the wave; it was kind of stormy and crossed up, making these little waves on top of the waves. So as I’m looking down at him I felt the wave pick the ski up, and I was like, ‘Oh my God, I’m gliding on this thing with no control!’ People were saying that I should have turned and gassed it out the back, but I’d never been in that position before; I’d never really driven a Jet Ski in surf at all! So once I felt that the wave had me and the ski, I just ejected out the back to save myself, all the while praying that the ski would go over Raimana and not tumble down the face onto him.


“Once I popped up, I was just praying that I’d see him kick out into the channel; that’s all that mattered to me. Once I saw him do so, I was so relieved. After that I just had to deal with a bruised ego and a lot of embarrassment. Andy Irons was in the channel, and he was like, ‘You shouldn’t have been out there,’ and I was like, ‘I know!’ It was in Sports Illustrated, the “[Late Night with David]Letterman” show, “Good Morning America”; that shit was everywhere! I can look back on it now and laugh, and once I saw Raimana, I was like, ‘I told you I couldn’t f–kin’ drive!’”

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There is a lot of debate between those who are into surfing and those who are into bodyboarding about which one is better. One of the reasons why there is so much debate is because one is more glamorized then the other. Surfing is something you see on TV at times, it is something you have seen on popular television shows. You really do not hear much about bodyboarding . There are also competitions that take place during certain times of the year in places like Hawaii, where surfing is brought to the forefront again. Once again this gives an edge to surfing over bodyboarding.

Which one is better?
Determining which one is better is actually quite difficult and it’s going to be a matter of personal opinion. The reality is that each one has its pros and cons. For instance, if you are someone who is just starting out in the water and you are uncomfortable and nervous about it, then bodyboarding is a good starter for you. Bodyboarding is going to teach you how to ride the waves perfectly so you can get over the intimidation factor the ocean presents. Bodyboarding also is much easier and takes far less time to learn than surfing.

What does this mean?
Someone who has reserves about going in the ocean may feel more comfortable with bodyboarding long-term. Instead of going on to surfing they may decide to keep honing their skills at bodyboarding until they are an expert at that. But if surfing is seen as being the next step, such a person may still be looked down upon by those who are expert surfers. Surfers see themselves as being more skilled, because they have the skills of the bodyboarder in most cases and they also have good surfing skills.

Surfing
When it comes to surfing, it is said to be better because different variations can be done while taking part in it. You can bend down, stand up, and do all types of other tricks when you are surfing. Bodyboarding does not offer the same advantage. One reason why some people may prefer body boarding over surfing even still is because they may have injuries that prevent them from maneuvering the way they need to on a surfboard. Seeing as how they are not able to ride it the way they need to, bodyboarding affords them the chance to still enjoy the ocean waves even if they are hurt.

Bodyboarding
Bodyboarding is seen by those who are serious surfers as being something only enjoyed by those who are either less skilled, or simply too afraid to try full-fledged surfing. But is this true? Most of the time those who are serious about bodyboarding genuinely have more fun doing it than surfing. They may be able to do more with bodyboarding than what they would surfing. Also, there is far less chances of falling off with bodyboarding rather than surfing. This offers a sense of assurance with those who do not want to keep falling into the water or may be intimidated by really big waves.

The reality is that bodyboarding and surfing are both two really good sports to be involved in. Each offers the individual a chance to express themselves in different ways, from everything to the clothes they might wear, to the design of bodyboard or surf board they might have. If the body boarders see themselves as outcasts, then this role is to be embraced. Surfers who see themselves as being superior can engage in friendly competition amongst the bodyboarders. Some pretty good rivalries have been created this way.

Shame, fear, weakness, and misunderstanding. Pro surfers and pro surfing organizations don't want to talk about homosexuality, but the truth is that diversity is out there.

"Caught Inside: The Taboo of Being a Gay Surfer" is a simple documentary about three gay surfers who have all recently come out in a sub-culture where they say homosexuality is still a taboo.

"The word faggot has been a derogatory term for I guess what we would call a loser. It's sad, in a sense, because where it's come from is calling gay people losers," says Adam George.

David Wakefield, a former Australian state surfing champion, spent many years closed in his own secret. After discovering an online community for gay surfers, he decided it was time to live life with his true self.
"I hope that surfer, when they come out, will be sponsored and retain their sponsorships. I hope that everything is based around skilled level and passion and drive and commitment rather than sexuality," underlines Wakefield.


"Caught Inside: The Taboo of Being a Gay Surfer" is a must-see short surf film. If you want to know more about how is it to be gay in the surfing world, watch "Out In The Line-Up," by Thomas Castets.

Close your eyes and think “surfing”. What picture do you see in your head? You might imagine blue ocean, crushing waves, and white strips of sand. Possibly some palms, maybe also a group of tanned, handsome men and beautiful women, all looking like actors from Baywatch. But would you ever think of a leafy old park on the banks of an icy cold river in the middle of a bustling German city?
Do you see it as an urban sport, a typically large city activity? Probably not — so read on! This article might completely change your views on surfing!

Grab your board, it’s time for Urban Surfing; credit: Marta Ratajszczak


Thinking of visiting Germany?
If you ever happen to visit Munich and grow tired of the numerous museums and monuments, you should venture to one of the city’s nicest and largest green areas — the Englischer Gartens. As you walk toward its southern part, you might encounter people dressed in wetsuits or colorful bermuda shorts, carrying full-sized surfboards. If you happen to be a curious person, follow them into the park. You will witness the most unusual scene: a group of men and women of all ages, patiently waiting their turn to surf on the waves of the rough river below!

Attracting people for more than 30 years
The “standing wave” on river Eisbach has attracted surfers for more than 30 years. It is an amazing solution for surfing fans who live too far from the ocean to make frequent visits possible. The Munich wave is by no means meant for beginners; it is about 1 meter high and 12 meters wide, with a flow velocity of approximately 5 meters per second. The flow — breaking rocks in the river bed — can also be deadly for an inexperienced surfer. The resident surfers might even ask the novice to leave — any serious injury could result in the spot being destroyed. Although people have been surfing here since 1972, they could only legally do so since 2010. A new sign is warning newbies: “Due to the forceful current, the wave is suitable for skilled and experienced surfers only”.



Local wisdom

The wave, formed by water gushing from under the bridge into the channel, used to be much more capricious, sometimes even disappearing for periods of time. Then, the surfers discovered that it could be stabilized by placing some wooden planks, concrete bollards, and a system of ropes, pulleys, and stopper planks in carefully selected spots and operated by the surfers themselves.

The Eisbach wave is extremely popular; there is always a queue of surfers waiting their turn to put their bodies in the icy water. The surfers do not disappear even in the winter. Competitions are held, and some Munich-trained surfers became internationally known professionals.







This standing wave is not the only one in Europe. There are others not only in Germany, but also in Austria and Norway. Does it mean that river surfing is becoming a popular choice of sport for urban dwellers? I do not think its time has come yet. However, it certainly is an amazing experience to see real surfers in the middle of a city. It is a great tourist attraction and, most importantly, it is truly a wonderful addition to the cityscape!
Article written by Marta Ratajszczak

Featured image credit: Marta Ratajszczak Source

Waterproof surf cameras have become part of the surfer's gear and equipment. In the last decade, digital photo and video cameras have been improved and upgraded to fit the wave riding needs.

Today, it's easy to capture the essence of surfing, kitesurfing, windsurfing and bodyboarding, right in the center of the action.

Waterproof surf cameras provide a great legacy for surfers. Riders can now review their position on the surfboard, can fine-tune their surf tricks and correct future positions and wave decisions.

Digital cameras for water sports have special features and must meet a handful of surf requirements. Portability, wearability, quality of the images and videos, weight and digital compatibility are the most important things you must confirm before buying a digital surf camera.

There are more options that you might imagine. Filming and photographing waves and surfing is more than just mounting a small camera on a surfboard and clicking the record button. As your enthusiasm in water surf capture grows, you might think of better professional immersive water cameras.

The GoPro HD Hero 3+ is one the best waterproof digital surf cameras for capturing yourself. You can mount the camera on your surfboard or carry it in your chest and helmet. Its full 170º wide angle 1440p video, 12 megapixel photos, and Wi-Fi will do the rest. Great to impress girls and surf rivals.

SeaLife DC1400 is a great waterproof camera for those who would love to kick off a surf career as a surf photographer. This underwater digital camera offers 12-megapixel results and vibrant colors to make photos you will never forget. It was depth tested to 200 ft and has a great flash option.

The FLIR Thermal Night Vision Camera is for futurists of surf photography. With this surf gem, you can capture high quality maritime surf sessions, in total darkness. It requires no light at all.

The Nikon CoolPix AW110 is waterproof and shockproof camera prepared for all water battles. The quality of the glass lens allows three shots in one second and Full HD (1080p) movies.

The Aqua Vu Micro is the size of a smartphone and automatically turns two invisible infrared lights on and off depending on light conditions. A small and versatile option for surfers.

The Intova IC16 is ideal for capturing fast moving subjects underwater. It offers waterproof protection to 180 feet/54 meters 52 mm lens barrel for additional filters and accessories.

The Drift HD Ghost offers full HD for creating crystal clear footage, with its 1080p high definition lens.


The Pentax Optio WG-1 is more than just a waterproof camera. It also offers a GPS functionality for positional data recording of the exact places where the photo was taken. With a 16 megapixel sensor and 5x optical zoom, it delivers stunning results in the line-up.

The Contour Roam 2 is one of the easiest-to-use waterproof cameras on the market. With a slide of the power on and record switch, you're filming your favorite adventures in crystal clear HD video.


The surf camera review has been updated on the 16th May 2014.

Mounting a GoPro SurfHero camera on a bodyboard is easy. The famous fisheye surf gadget can be installed in all bodyboards, with no exceptions. The best place to mount the GoPro camera in a bodyboard is the nose.

You should center it as close to the edge as possible, with the mounting pad that is sold by GoPro. The further back you go with the mounting pad, the more of your board is going to appear in the photo or video.

Before applying the mounting pad to the bodyboard, it's important that you customize it. That is why you should make two leash plug holes with a portable drill and screw. It's very easy and quick.

Then, cut the remaining upper plastic part that close to the nose. You don't need a large ammount of mounting pad to safely attach the GoPro HD camera. Watch a video on how to mount a GoPro camera on a bodyboard.

With a pen, mark where you want the leash plugs to go in. Pick your favourite screwdriver or drill and make the two holes. Pop the plugs, thread it through and you're done.

Although your board is going to have two leach plug holes, it is definitely worth it because you're about to get the most incredibles rides of your lifetime on tape.


Buy the GoPro HD Hero3+.
Discover the best waterproof surf cameras in the world.

GoPro has released a mount especially designed for bodyboard.

How do you capture El Rollos and ARS? Surf camera company GoPro has announced the launch of a bodyboard mount that allows you to shoot immersive POV footage, or point the camera back towards yourself to capture selfies while riding waves.

The mount is compatible with boards 1.5'' to 3.5'' (3.8cm to 8.8cm) thick, and includes a camera tether and locking plug for added security in heavy surf.

The GoPro bodyboard mount can also be used in a soft-top or foam surfboard, and standup paddleboard. Last but not least, the kit comes with a mounting arrow to help you choose the best capture angle during installation.


Get the GoPro bodyboard mount and learn how to install it.

So you’ve seen the coolest surf pic on the Internet today going viral. Over 100,000 people had seen it on the last count with 5,400 likes and 647 shares on the Carve FB page. If you hadn’t seen them, they are above! So what’s the story? Well we asked the poster/photog Morocan surfer Adil Satyr what was happening.

Adil: We have an association of surfing here at Skhirat beach (Association de surf Skhirat Plage ), a small beach town south of Rabat, providing surf lessons and other watersports. We and another association located in Casablanca called Bahri (“my beach”) who are focused on cleaning the Moroccan beaches and spread the awareness of keeping our beaches clean decided to organise a beach cleaning at the local spot and we called out all the associations taking care of the orphaned and disabled children in the area.

It was a big event, children and volunteers cleaned the local beach and the port too, and we organised some beach games for the kids who had a great time playing beach volley, football and dancing on music with the clown, but the best part was when we offered free surfing lessons for those orphaned kids who enjoyed and liked standing up on a surfboard. Even some of them who are mentally disabled had an amazing time and were screaming out of joy and stoke. They had the biggest smile ever which made us more motivated and happy like ever before.”

Good work Moroccan fellas!

Photo : adventure.howstuffworks.com

photo : indosurflife.com

Sometimes I'm surprised I wasn't born with gills.

My life in the water started when I was 13 and joined my high school's water polo team. I sucked, but fell in love. I got better and ended up playing competitively through college.

When I graduated, I wasn't ready to give up the water yet and joined a masters swim team. I swam regularly through medical school, even setting a couple of records in competitions.

So when I discovered surfing... well, needless to say, I was in awe. Yes, it was fun to play around in a pool, but to be in the ocean? To feel the rhythm of the waves underneath me? To splash around with dolphins and seals (and luckily for me, no sharks so far)? You can't beat it.

Surfing is not just a sport, it's a perspective. It's a way of life. Yes, that sounds dramatic, but hear me out. Surfing can teach you life lessons you won't learn anywhere else. Let me share a few with you.

1. There's plenty of room at the top.
Los Angeles is crowded. There are almost 10 million people within its county limits. On your typical sunny weekend day when the waves are decent, the water is congested with hundreds of little black dots, each trying to carve out his or her own little corner of the ocean.

For months, the crowds intimidated me so much that I wouldn't even go out. I felt insecure about my own abilities. I didn't think I belonged out there. I'd wait until it was rainy or the water was choppy and go out when no other decent surfer would bother. If the waves looked good? Forget it. I'd be at home.

But then, as I spent more time in the water, I realized that of all those hundreds of bodies out there, only a small handful were actually going for the waves. The rest were just sitting around, hanging out. I had spent all this time being intimidated by "competition" that didn't even exist.

Now when I go out, I don't care if I see a thousand bodies out there. I know there are enough waves for all of us who really want them.

Do you feel a burning desire to write? To create art? To build a business? Do you feel held back all the other people you see who you think are so much better at it than you? Do you worry that the marketplace is too crowded?
Please, don't be. There are not as many people at the top as you think. There is room for you up there, too, if you're willing to do the work it takes to get there.

2. It's not about any one huge effort -- it's about focused, consistent work over time.
Have you ever heard the expression that to be a writer, you need "butt-in-chair" time? Well the same is true for surfing. You need "body-in-water" time.

My friend James Clear calls this your average daily speed. It's not so important how much you do in a burst of inspiration. It's about how much you do day after day, when you just want to give up and go home.

For the entire first six months I surfed, I didn't catch a single wave. The next six months, I caught a few.

Most of the hours and hours I spent in the ocean were passed paddling around, falling, getting beaten up and jealously watching all the other surfers who seemed to know what they were doing a lot better than I did. Then I'd go home, tired and frustrated.

But this was not time wasted. This was when I learned how waves worked, where to look, where to sit on my board, how to position myself, when I should move in because the tide was changing, when I should move out because a big set was coming from outside.

One day, all of the sudden, I started catching waves. I didn't even know what I was doing differently. I was just moving on instinct.

Put in your time. The results will come.

3. Bide your time, and strike when the iron is hot.
First, a little background on wave science.
Waves don't just roll into the shore one after the other. They come in clusters, or sets. Depending on the weather conditions, the ocean will typically be silent for a while, and then a set of three or four waves will roll in a few seconds apart.

I can always tell the less experienced surfers because they go for the first wave in the set. Believe me, I understand the impulse. We've all been out there, sitting around, waiting for something exciting to happen. So when that first wave comes... bam! Everyone runs after it in a mad dash.

Not me. I watch and wait. I watch as everyone else rushes for the wave. A few catch it, but most don't. And all of those who didn't are now out of position when the second and third waves roll in, which are typically bigger and better formed than the first. That's when I make my move, and get the wave all to myself.
So be patient. Don't get caught in the mad dash. If everyone's running one way, check out to see what's in the other direction.

4. You can tell a professional not by his talent but by his attitude. The same is true of an amateur.
Everyone starts somewhere. Everyone was a beginner once.

Territoriality is for amateurs. Arrogance is for amateurs. Grandiosity is for amateurs. I don't mean "amateur" in the professional sports sense, I mean in the Steven Pressfield Turning Pro sense. You can be the best surfer out there and still be an amateur. You can have a professional contract and still be an amateur.

I once saw a guy surfing who was pretty good, but was a total asshole. He had a longboard, which means you can catch waves earlier than other people can, and was stealing all the waves without respecting the lineup. He was yelling at anyone who he thought was getting in his way. He was grabbing people's leashes to pull them out of the waves so he could cut in.

You know what? That guy had some skills, but in five years he's still going to be putting around, stealing waves and pulling leashes. He's never going to get any better than he is now.
So in whatever you're trying to do, be a pro. Show up. Do your work. Help others who don't know as much as you. Be helped by people know know more. If you find yourself getting arrogant, check it.

5. Most people are rooting for you, not trying to compete with you.
Yes, every once in a while you come across a surfer with a stick up his ass (see above), but more often than not, I'm blown away by the generosity of the surfing community.

I've paddled out to the ocean alone and swam back with new friends. I've had total strangers take me under their wing and show me the ropes for the few hours we found ourselves in the same waves, for no other reason than they had the expertise and saw I could use it.

Those of us who love this sport -- we root for each other. We congratulate each other for good rides. We take turns. We see a good wave coming and say, "You go right, I'll go left." We share. We want each other to succeed.

Too many people operate under the delusion of competition, when the most helpful stance is collaboration. Don't make the mistake of getting competitive when other people just want to help you. Don't be the jerk who's pushing others out of the way when those people would freely give the way to you.

6. There's no point fighting forces of nature.
The ocean doesn't care about you. It is a force of nature that existed long before you were born and that will be around long after you turn to dust.

It doesn't care if you have a good day surfing or a bad day. It doesn't care if it scares you. It doesn't care if it kills you.

When a big wave knocks me over and holds me underwater, it wouldn't make much sense for me to get mad at it, right? But really, we operate that way all the time, fighting forces of life that are as unavoidable as the strength and immensity of the ocean.

We fight that we have pain, get sick, get old, die. We fight that relationships end. We fight to string happy moment after happy moment, as if we could prevent anything bad from happening in between.

Why do we do this to ourselves? It's a waste of time, and a waste of energy. We operate under the illusion of control when so many of the most important things in life aren't even close to the realm of our control. But this doesn't have to be a terrifying concept.

When you release yourself from the illusion of control, you can relax. You can put in your best effort but let things turn out how they'll turn out. You can find moments of joy in the most simple things.
So don't fight forces of nature. Ride them.

SOURCE 

Nothing against rubber– some of the world’s best surf zones are in frigid water. But you just can’t beat surfing in a pair of trunks.

Check out Billabong’s new mini-movie Life’s Better in Boardshorts.

The whole flick was filmed in Bali and Lombok using some sexy new state-of-the-art filming techniques. In addition to the standard pile of pricey camera equipment, the crew captured footage with a remote-controlled helicopter and specially mounted SLR camera. Though it wasn’t easy or cheap, the final product is well worth it. See for yourself:

A short film featuring Tai ‘ Buddha’ Graham. Documenting the travels of his life living in Indonesia chasing swells, or sometimes unicorns, throughout the archipelago.

Kelly Slater believes that there should be premium surf spots delivering double points on the ASP World Tour.

Despite a few hip and lower back injuries, Kelly Slater is ready to attack the 12th world surfing title. The greatest competitive surfer of all time is about to enter his favorite stages on the ASP World Tour: Fiji, Jeffreys Bay, Teahupoo and Lower Trestles.

Slater also considers that there should be premium spots on the Tour. "I really think Fiji and Pipe and possibly Teahupoo and/or J-Bay should be considered "majors" for us and be given double points".
The Floridian surfer underlines that "non-Dream Tour waves can stay, but take a back seat. There would then be a real impact from what everyone considers to be the best surf spots."

Kelly thinks that inconsistent waves and closeout beach breaks like Rio leave everyone open to being taken out unexpectedly by low seeds. The premium stops proposal would "filter" the best, the good, and the average surfers.

More than one-third of the 2014 ASP World Tour has been completed. The leader hasn't won a single event but, as we've seen in the recent past, that that doesn't mean Slater will not celebrate the 12th title.

The Fiji Pro 2014 runs between June 1st-13th, in Tavarua. The deep-water beast of Cloudbreak and perfect high-performance lefthander of Restaurants will serve as locations for this year's event.

Fiji Pro 2014 Round 1 Matchups

Adriano de Souza (BRA), Kai Otton (AUS), Tiago Pires (PRT)
Michel Bourez (PYF), Filipe Toledo (BRA), Brett Simpson (USA)
Mick Fanning (AUS), Freddy Patacchia (HAW), Glenn Hall (IRL)
Taj Burrow (AUS), Adrian Buchan (AUS), Mitch Coleborn (AUS)
Joel Parkinson (AUS), Mitch Crews (AUS), Wiggolly Dantas (BRA)
Kelly Slater (USA), Jeremy Flores (FRA), Isei Tokovou (FJI)
Gabriel Medina (BRA), Kolohe Andino (USA), Dion Atkinson (AUS)
Josh Kerr (AUS), Sebastian Zeitz (HAW), Alejo Muniz (BRA)
Jordy Smith (ZAF), Miguel Pupo (BRA), Aritz Aranburu (ESP)
Nat Young (USA), Owen Wright (AUS), Matt Wilkinson (AUS)
Julian Wilson (AUS), Bede Durbidge (AUS), Jadson Andre (BRA)
John John Florence (HAW), C.J. Hobgood (USA), Travis Logie (ZAF)

Extra-Ord-Inary
Interview by Sharpy
Russ Ord is a name you’ll be familiar with if you’ve been reading Carve the last few years. He’s the West Australian water photographer that puts himself in situations in the salt that few would dare attempt. You’ll have seen him bobbing around shooting the mega session at The Right.  Can’t even begin to imagine what it would be like to swim under these beasts the flesh … So we asked him.

So. After swimming under this thing can you confirm that you are actually still alive and in one piece?
Yes, I still have all my limbs in the correct place and everything is functioning as per normal or abnormal depending which side of the fence you sit on.

Which part of shallow/sharky/huge/heavy equation scares you most?
When we first arrive my whole concern is actually on the wave itself, the size, currents, direction of swell and basically all the conditions on the day. The night before when preparing for the predicted swell I was hoping it wouldn’t be too big so I could attempt to have a swim, sharks don’t come into my thought process, I have enough on my plate to let that bother me.


Can you even begin to describe what swimming under a set there is like?
Normally I’m out there for a good hour or so feeling out the conditions and trying to get some Dutch courage up to get in closer, I must have been a touch excited and just swam too deep (obviously) I could hear all the ski’s in the channel moving so I knew something was coming. It was good to get it out of the way in the early stages when I had a heap of energy, I actually enjoyed that wave, no real beating at all surprisingly.

How are the currents can it suck you too deep or is trying to push you off the shelf the whole time?
The previous times I’ve swum there the currents have pushed me away from the impact zone, that was my big mistake on this day because I only took a few stokes and found myself in the wrong position, it’s a great wake call and a good lesson for next time.

Do the surfers give you a funny look when you jump in the brine and start kicking when you could quite happily shoot from a ski?
I could shoot from the ski which I have done for years. Over time it’s become very unrewarding, every moment captured without having a real moment myself. If I could just get that one photo from the water I am extremely happy, besides there are so many photog’s now that just show up with no crew and shoot from the channel, I have my own peace out amongst the chaos.

How big do you think you can swim it?
That’s big enough for now! Until I start shooting wide-angle better there’s no point trying to go larger. I know wide-angle makes the wave look smaller etc, people and many photographers don’t appreciate or understand the efforts that go into just getting that type of shot, but like the surfers that take it on, it’s very addictive … a natural high on life.

How long can you hold your breath for?
Long enough if keeping calm and remembering the training that I have done with Joe Knight from One Ocean International, my life revolves around that every day. When I’m relaxed in the pool its 3:20 which is disappointing in a way because I need to get past my mind telling me I need air, like all good free divers can do.
Have you gone over the falls there yet?
Couple of times but only on the end bowl, not like some of the surfers that have gone over on the peak. I keep telling myself they are fine and survive the beating so go deeper, it’s a build up over time, it will happen.


Do you kiss the sand when you get back to the beach after a session like that?
I certainly kiss the wife and kids once home. It’s a complete natural high if I think enough effort went into the swim.

Interview original appeared in issue 151 of Carve.

Southern hemi winter and Skeleton Bay comes alive. Hefty swell this one. Fancy your chances?