hiya wa howa aswat

“My whole life is this escape. My whole life is this wave I drop into; set the whole thing up, pull off a bottom turn, pull up into it, and shoot for my life… going for broke. And behind me all this goes over my back: the screaming parents, teachers, the police, priests, politicians, kneeboarders, windsurfers – they’re all going over the falls into the reef; headfirst into the reef, and BWAH! And I’m shooting for my life. And when it starts to close out, I pull out and go down the back, and catch another wave, and do the same goddamned thing again.” – Miki Dora
Footage by Juan Bacagianis / Lola Fernandez / Ricky Giacaglia
Edit By Juan Bacagianis