Why surfing makes the world a better place
1. Pure Joy:
The pure joy of riding waves puts a smile across your face like never before. I wrote before about the power of your smile. Once you start to spend the majority of the day catching waves, and riding them to the shore, you spend the majority of the day with an ear to ear smile, accompanied by adrenaline rush. No matter how big or small the waves are the smile on your face is always the same.
2. Peace of mind:
This perhaps was one of the most ironic things I’ve picked up from my time in the ocean. For some reason, time in the ocean brings a peace of mind to your life that I can’t really put into words. It’s almost silly to try and explain this because I think it’s only something you can understand once you experience it. Perhaps this is why surfing is like an addictive drug that keeps you coming back for more. Just when you think you are done for the day, your immediate thought is “one last good ride.”
3. Adventure/Adrenaline:
I am personally of the opinion that human beings are meant to experience adventure and adrenaline rush. That could be racing cars, climbing to the highest peaks, skiing black diamonds, or riding waves. Endorphin releases are a good thing, and when I surf I seem to experience one endorphin release after another.
4. Friendship:
An interesting byproduct of my time at the beach over the last few months is the formation of many new friendships. As a result of frequenting the same beach over and over I have started to make friends with people I would have never met. I’ve met people from all walks of life and all kinds of backgrounds. Our one bond has been the joy of riding waves and as a result I’ve bonded with them.
5. Nature:
Considering that three fourths of the planet is covered in water, it makes sense that spending time in the ocean has a way of rejuvenating us like nothing else. Water is the element that is essential to our survival and the ocean is water in one of its purest and most beautiful forms.
My final words: If you live near an ocean, do yourself a favor and Step Into Liquid.
15:12
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Peace&Surf
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