Why do surfers love their sport?
Because, through out the span of your life as a 'surfer', it is an individual effort with no winner or loser and you only rely on yourself. It also is a sport/lifestyle with a constant learning process.
I would say the first two years of surfing are your best years. During that time you have little expectations of the conditions and yourself as a surfer. It morphs into a focus on the act of riding the board, with all the anxiety around not surfing up to your and other surfer's expectations. Later in your surfing life, it becomes more about the act of surfing, being in the ocean, enjoying nature, getting away from technology and stressors that exists on land (cell phones, computers, ipads, kids, wife/husband, work, ect). I am at this point now.
I am sure there will be more lessons from surfing for me and I look forward to surfing untill the day I leave this life....
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